Posts in Journal
ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL REVISITED - SOUTHERN ROUTE EDITION

It’s been almost 8 years since I first set of from Kangerlussuaq on the 100 mile (160 km) journey to the coast of West Greenland and the town of Sisimiut. As a professional guide I’m fortunate to live a life of adventure but this particular adventure has stayed with me as one of my favorites, the first time I truly felt like an explorer.

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ALONE IN THE ARCTIC: MY JOURNEY ON THE ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL

In September of 2014 I flew into Kangerlussuaq, Greenland to hike the Arctic Circle Trail (Polar Route) to the west coast town of Sisimiut. I’ve always prided myself on offering my clients a unique, off the beaten path, adventure and what could satisfy that criteria more than a trekking adventure in the least populated country on the planet.

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ALONE IN THE ARCTIC: MY JOURNEY ON THE ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL (DAY 8)

I woke up to snow covering the mountains about 500’ above me, with fog rolling in and the sky threatening rain. “Who cares,” I think to myself. The ground at my elevation is clear and I’m heading into town today. I finish what bit of coffee I have left and hoist a much lighter backpack onto my shoulders. I’m excited to get into town. Excited to finally have a hot shower, clean clothes and a juicy burger, but mostly I’m just excited about the burger.

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ALONE IN THE ARCTIC: MY JOURNEY ON THE ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL (DAY 6)

I slept well and woke up to a chilly morning once I unzipped my sleeping bag and reentered the environment of the hut. These huts are primarily used in Winter for dog sledge and snow machine trips so there’s often no gas left for the heater which is the case this morning. Innauattoq is by far my favorite hut! Not only is the setting picturesque, set upon the shores of a mountain lake with a hilly island at its center and ridge lines encircling its boundary like a coliseum, but it is well designed with the only breakfast nook on the trail.

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ALONE IN THE ARCTIC: MY JOURNEY ON THE ARCTIC CIRCLE TRAIL (DAY 5)

I woke up with the rest of my hut-mates and enjoyed breakfast and a few cups of coffee with my new friends. They would be returning to the hut later that day so while I was packing up to move on they were getting ready to head out for the hunt. We posed for a few photos, including the one above, and I walked with them towards the water source before we said our goodbyes. I looked forward to seeing them in Sisimiut in a few days and learning more about their lives and culture.

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Alone In The Arctic: My Journey on the Arctic Circle Trail (Day 4)

I woke up staring at rain on the hut windows. Not a good sign! I only had 6.5 miles to complete today but even that relatively short distance could be a problem if my rain gear became saturated again. After spending the day before mostly soaking wet, cold, and hungry, I had really hoped to wake and gaze upon sunny skies.

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Alone In The Arctic: My Journey on the Arctic Circle Trail (Day 3)

I was a little too well hydrated last night and woke up in the middle of the night. Just outside the hut, while "adjusting my hydration level", I looked up and noticed the faint shadows of what must have been the northern lights. They weren't the brilliant green colors you so often see in pictures but simply shades of black and grey.

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Alone In The Arctic: My Journey on the Arctic Circle Trail (Day 2)

The hut was very comfortable and I slept well last night. When I stepped outside I quickly discovered the resident arctic hare that was mentioned in the shelter journal as a frequent visitor. While he took note of my presence, he let me approach fairly closely without a hint of anxiousness. I didn’t want to disturb his breakfast so I took a few photos, let him be, and went about my morning chores.

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Alone In The Arctic: My Journey on the Arctic Circle Trail (Day 1)

I flew into Kangerlussuaq on the daily flight from Copenhagen and rejoiced in the fact that i had finally arrived in Greenland and was now well north of the Arctic Circle. The airport is an old U.S. Air Force base that was given back to Greenland and Denmark following the end of the Cold War.

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